Places to Visit in Cornwall

• Iron Age, Bronze Age and Neolithic Antiquities
• Castles, Houses, and Gardens
• Coastal Scenery and Beaches
• Museums and Other Destinations
• Walking Trips
• Arts and Crafts
• Family Entertainment
• Playgrounds

We've added the date of our last visit to make it easier to assess how current the information is (since craft galleries in particular can change hands rapidly) or how relevant the child-specific information is to your little ones. While we have noted actively stroller-hostile places, the absence of comments is not a suggestion to use the stroller — we prefer a backpack or sling for most expeditions.

Iron Age, Bronze Age and Neolithic Antiquities

These are all in West Penwith and could be part of a day trip from Cadgwith:

• Chysauster is a Romano-Cornish village with eight well-preserved houses. There are decent information signs, but it is still an interesting experience trying to picture life here. Not stroller friendly but the climb up is not stressful with a child in a sling or backpack. (September 1998)
  
  
• Trencrom Hill hillfort is good for clambering about with older children. It also has great views of Mount's Bay. The hillfort, as is usually the case, is not much in evidence although the trained eye can see it in the banks and boulders. (September 1990)
  
  
• Chûn Castle Iron Age hillfort and Chûn Quoit Neolithic dolmen. Not stroller friendly and the path can be overgrown with gorse. Lloyd, wearing shorts, was very badly scratched on the climb up while Anne (in trousers) and Elisabeth (in backpack) emerged unscathed. (August 1999)
  
  
• Merry Maidens stone circle is one of the best preserved and most complete stone circles in England. It is found in a field conveniently next to a layby on the B3315 from Newlyn to Land's End. At the time of our visit, the field was free of cowpats and the children enjoyed running around the stones and sampling the blackberries. (September 2001)
  
  
• Mên Scryfa standing stone is a rare inscribed stone. It is near the Mên-an-Tol holed stone and the path is reasonably stroller friendly if a bit bumpy. (September 2000)

For full details on these sites and many others, check out Ian Cooke's Journey to the Stones: Ancient Sites & Pagan Mysteries of Celtic Cornwall: Guided Walks to the Old Stones of the Land's End Peninsula, published by the Mên-an-Tol Studio and available there and at good book stores in West Penwith. Another good resource is The Stone Pages.

Castles, Houses, and Gardens

Since the arrival of Elisabeth and Perran, we have cut back on our visits to nicely furnished houses: some don't allow baby backpacks and all present a series of temptations to the toddler and challenges to the toddler parent. Until our two are completely historic house-"trained", we'll be concentrating on castles and gardens.

This list is arranged (very approximately) by proximity to Cadgwith. They could all form part of a day trip from Cadgwith:

• St Mellanus in Mullion is our favourite of the local churches. It is, relatively speaking, large and full of light with an impressive restored rood screen and wonderful carved benches. Elisabeth (6) and Perran (4) don't get excited about churches but they enjoyed their visit here. This owed much to features that we can't promise other visitors, especially the African swallows nesting in the South porch. But you may run into the friendly grandfatherly type who showed us around and pointed out the Dog Door (a medieval cat-flap!) in the south door, the carving of Jonah and the Whale on a bench-end, and two different representations of the Green Man. (August 2004)

• Trebah, just outside Mawnan Smith (that's near Falmouth), is our favourite garden. The guide book promised "a magnificent old, wild and magical Cornish garden" — and we weren't disappointed. In May, there is a colourful display of rhododendrons and camellias while most of the colour in August came from hydrangeas. As with many of Cornwall's great gardens, Trebah is sheltered in a ravine: this one falls down to a beach on the Helford estuary. When we visited in 2001, we thought this was the most child friendly garden we'd found. There are two play areas: Fort Stuart (for the under 5's) and Tarzan's Camp (for older children but Perran, aged three, loved it) and at least three activity trails for children to follow — and under 5's are free! With the new visitor's centre, this is even more true: the toilets have sinks, hand driers and even urinals sized for the younger set! And the coffee shop, now a restaurant, offered a "pick, pack, and pay" lunch box for the children (including children-sized sandwiches) as well as some delicious entrees for the more grown-up appetites. On both occasions, we did the walk down to the beach. There's a steep climb back up but they've taken great care to make at least the main paths wheelchair accessible so it is possible to do the walk with a stroller even though carrying it over the stepped bridge to the beach is a bit awkward. Elisabeth, just turned three, found the combination of gravel paths and steep slopes quite challenging and lost her footing several times. Two years later, both Elisabeth and Perran completed the circuit on their own, aided by a strategic dose of fudge on the beach. (August 2003)

• Glendurgan, also just outside Mawnan Smith and right next door to Trebah, is another magnificent garden. From the entrance near the main house (which is not open to the public), it leads down to the Helford River and a gate connecting it to the waterside village of Durgan. On a damp morning, with conditions ranging from misty to outright rain, we didn't attempt a full exploration but descended far enough to show Elisabeth and Perran the laurel maze. Although we didn't find any features designed for small children, they both thoroughly enjoyed themselves. The rhododendrons were in full bloom and Elisabeth, aged four, admired the pretty flowers while happily navigating all the slopes, despite the wet conditions. Perran, aged two, insisted on being carried but enjoyed the variety of colours and demonstrated, repeatedly, his mastery of all the colour names. (May 2002)
  
  
• Trevarno Estate Gardens, just off the B3303 in Crowntown, near Nancegollan, looked very promising on a rainy winter's afternoon. Armed with a good map and helped by a well-marked trail, we enjoyed walking through the formal gardens and the bluebell woodland, even though very little was in flower. We spotted but did not visit the National Museum of Gardening, a display of vintage toys, a number of craft workshops, and the attractive Fountain Garden Conservatory (aka the tea rooms). This is a work-in-progress which aims to prove that an historic Cornish estate can still be viable in the 21st century. We plan on visiting again in the Spring to see the garden at its best. (December 2002)
  
  
• St Michael's Mount is the Cornish answer to Mont St Michel. It also started life as a Benedictine priory but is much smaller and far more intimate than its famous French counterpart. Today it is the home of Lord St Levan: Elisabeth, at the age of two, wasn't at all impressed when we saw him on the North Terrace. The climb to the top is both steep and cobbled — don't even think about trying it with a stroller! But it is worth it both for the views of Mount's Bay and to see inside the castle itself. Perran, at three, managed the whole climb under his own power which, given his propensity to be carried whenever possible, was a pleasant surprise. The gardens are open in April and May and for charity events: they are also worth a visit, although they are not free to National Trust members. The first time, we really enjoyed walking the entire circuit around the Mount, although the path was not toddler friendly at certain points. The second time, we climbed the terraces and explored the garden's nooks and crannies.
  
  When the tide is in, the Mount is reached by boat; when the tide is out, there is a causeway. As a rough rule of thumb, we estimate that the boats run for three hours on either side of high tide and that the causeway does not require wading for an hour on either side of low tide. That does leave an interval when wading is required! If you're not certain of the tide times or want to check if the ferry is running in rough seas, you can call ahead (01736 710 265). Be warned that the boat ride can permanently alter your child's perception of what makes for a "proper" castle! Parking is at Marazion, with the price dropping the further away you are from the Mount. A full range of food is available on the Mount (including two cafes), as well as in Marazion, and it is well provisioned with toilets. (April 2003)
  
  
• Pendennis Castle near Falmouth. A Tudor fortification with later additions, the emphasis is on explaining the development of artillery through the ages. Elisabeth (5) and Perran (3) both found plenty to interest them in the Discovery Centre. They loved climbing around the keep but were suspicious of the (recreated) noise of gunfire. Our exploration was limited by absolutely foul weather — both children were being blown off the path despite holding onto an umbrella and a parent! — but Elisabeth suggested a return visit when the weather is better. (October 2003)
  
  
• St Mawes Castle is a small Tudor sea fortress, which with the larger Pendennis Castle, defended the Fal estuary. While its excellent condition owes much to the Victorians, it still has all the spiral staircases, gun decks, and battlements that young castle explorers require. The grounds are good for a picnic as well as discovering more fortifications and fighting off more enemy ships. The castle has a small car park but we took the 20 minute ride on St Mawes Ferry from the Prince of Wales dock in Falmouth and then strolled at child speed for 15 minutes to the castle. The walk was extremely pleasant with great river views on one side and the picturesque houses of St Mawes on the other. (April 2004)
  
  
• Trelissick Garden overlooking the Fal estuary. We made a brief stop to let Elisabeth and Perran have a "cup of tea" and to stretch their legs. However, the combination of beautiful garden and quality facilities means that we will be back soon to do it properly. The garden is laid out with a number of levels and slopes but is distinctly less treacherous for the rampaging toddler (Perran!) than the valley gardens of Trebah and Glendurgan, as well as parts of Heligan. We had our "cup of tea" in the Barn Restaurant where a child-friendly waitress made a point of serving the children's ice cream sundaes before our more traditional fare. There is also a nice looking craft gallery, which Lloyd remembers from a previous visit, but we ran out of time to check it out. (September 2001)
  
  
• Trengwainton Garden, near Penzance, is laid out on either side of a long drive. On one side is a series of walled gardens which shelter some rare and exotic plants. The other side is a woodland garden. At the end, there is a nice panoramic view over Mounts Bay. The garden is at its best when the rhododendrons and azaleas are in bloom. The newly opened cafe provided good food and service. Friends who visited in the early autumn were less impressed: there was just not that much to see at this time of year. (September 2001)
  
  
• Trerice, between Truro and Newquay, is an Elizabethan manor house with a museum of lawn mowers (!) It's a nice place to have lunch on the journey down to Cadgwith. (September 1997)
  
  
• Lanhydrock is a grand stately home rebuilt after a fire in 1881. The Victorian kitchens are most interesting — very "Upstairs, Downstairs". It's also a good place to stop for lunch on the way down to Cadgwith. (July 1997)
  
  
• Heligan, near Mevagissey, is famous for the "lost gardens". And they were well worth finding! Especially interesting are the kitchen gardens and background information on how the gardens were maintained at their prime. (September 1997)
  
  
• The Eden Project, near St Austell, barely needs an introduction! We visited on January 2nd and it was busy. While it was not unpleasantly so for the adults, the children were a little intimidated by the crowds and had to be carried through the Tropical biome (dome). We had been advised to visit the Temperate biome first because it suffers a bit in comparison with the larger, greener, and more lush Tropical biome. I would recommend that approach although the children preferred the Temperate one: there were more possibilities for running around and Elisabeth could recognize and appreciate more of the plants. There is a choice of a cafe and restaurant within the biomes: we tried the restaurant and found the food good although with the price tags to be expected at this kind of venue. And, even with the crowds, there appeared to be an adequate number of toilets. The walk from the Visitors' Centre to the Biomes was about 500 yards down gentle slopes: we used backpacks to transport the children but you could easily use a stroller if you want a personal battering ram for the crowds. We rode the "Land Train" back up — this tractor ride was probably the highlight of the day for the small fry: Elisabeth has asked to go back to "the place with the plants" to do it again!

  With small children, this could make a very long day trip from Cadgwith. We made it part of our journey back from the Lizard; we have heard — but do not guarantee — that Saturday, the changeover day, is the best day to visit. You can also buy your tickets from a tourist information point before visiting which eliminates one queue. (January 2002)
  
  

• Restormel, near Lostwithiel, is a ruined Norman keep. Enough remains to see what it would have been like at its prime and we all enjoyed climbing around it. (August 2002)
  
  
• Tintagel is the legendary birth place of King Arthur. The Arthurian connection means there are some tacky souvenir shops around but the castle and site are well worth a visit. There is a longish trek down a track to get to the castle and then some steep climbs inside to see it in all its glory. While it would be impossible to fully explore it with a toddler in a stroller, one of Elisabeth's friends enjoyed her visit when she was only 18 months old. (June 1993)

There are plenty of other National Trust and English Heritage sites to visit.

Coastal Scenery and Beaches

While we have always enjoyed walks along the coastal path, beaches were never one of our strong subjects. Now Elisabeth and Perran are leading our investigations in this area ... often literally as they hurtle towards the sea before we can get their shoes off, let alone change them into swimming costumes! We have learned to bring sweatshirts as well as towels because they'll stay in the water until they are purple with cold.

These are listed in order of proximity to Cadgwith:

• Cadgwith has two but we mostly use the swimming beach, not the fishing beach (it's obvious which is which). It's a pebble beach with some sand at low tide — although the quantity of sand varies from year to year. The toddler Elisabeth was happy to scramble over pebbles and rearrange them; the toddler Perran charged across it at speed and at high risk of a spectacular wipeout! Elisabeth and Perran have started climbing the rocks but they won't be climbing the cliffs, some are still badly eroding. For older kids, the beach offers good boulder scrambles at low tide and good swimming at high tide. Depending on your taste in beaches, this year's supply of sand, and the season, "little beach" could be all that you need.
  
  We only visit the fishing beach when the boats are not actively using it. Children need to be supervised around the boats, winch, and interesting detritus, but may be rewarded by finding whole shells. (August 2004)

• Kynance Cove was Elisabeth's first beach and she loved it — we were still cleaning sand out of the car a month later! It is still the children's favourite beach and is equally popular with adults because it is simply spectacular with caves, rock formations and the sandy beach. Go when the tide is out, since it's covered otherwise. And do check the tide times because the tide can come in very quickly. Our favoured strategy is to go in the morning as the tide is going out and stay until it's time to collect lunch from Ann's Pasty Shop. Another family spent the entire day here, retreating to the café at high tide. There are two paths down: one for walkers and one for strollers and the less-able. But just because you can get a stroller down there (and we know a family who managed a double buggy!), doesn't mean it's worth the trouble. The "easier" path is still steep and has a stretch of rocks between its end and the open sand. (The other path has steps and requires a scramble around a boulder as well as across rocks.) We strongly advise using backpacks to get the little ones down into the cove. This is partly for speed as well as safety: at barely four, Elisabeth took 25 minutes to walk down but was backpacked out and up the hill in 15! There is a café at the bottom (in season) and toilets at the bottom and the car park on top. (August 2004)

• Kennack Sands, a couple of miles north of Cadgwith, is a long sandy beach with WWII fortifications to explore. It is very crowded in the summer, but excellent for beach lovers and swimmers. We tried visiting just after high tide but found the beach shelves quite steeply so toddlers required close supervision while paddling. At low tide, there is a wide expanse of sand and the beach shelves gently. There is also an expansive set of rock pools to explore — but be warned that small children armed with long-handled nets are extremely dangerous! Elisabeth, at almost five, was particularly lethal and managed to clip everyone across the face with a wet and sandy net at least once. There is a car park, toilets, and shop (in season). (October 2003)

• Mullion Cove is a small walled harbour, supporting an even smaller fishing village. There are two car parks on the way in and then a short walk down. We enjoyed a stroll along the harbour walls and stunning glimpses of the coast. The cove has the standard facilities of refreshments, souvenirs, and toilets. (September 2001)

• Polurrian Cove, near Mullion, is a lovely secluded cove with beautiful views of the coast. At high tide, there is still a nice amount of sand which was more than enough to keep Elisabeth and Perran happy. The nearest parking is in Mullion's Tremenhee car park and it is a 20 minute walk down to the cove (that's with children — perhaps 10 for adults). We'd suggest taking an OS map to find the cove because it is not well signposted: from the Poldhu road, turn left down Laflounder Lane, follow it down past Laflounder Thatch cottage, and then ... good luck! All the facilities, including toilets, are back in Mullion although there was a locked toilet block on site. (August 2003)

• Poldhu Cove, near Mullion, is a large expanse of sand at low tide. Elisabeth particularly enjoyed the stream running through the sand — it offered lots of splashing possibilities. Perran found a large shallow rock pool and spent a happy half hour wading around in it. Friends have even managed to spot fish in the rock pools. This is probably the best beach for building sandcastles because the tide leaves such a wide expanse of wet sand behind. There's a pay & display car park across the road, and toilets, café and shop (in season). (August 2004)
  
  
• Church Cove at Gunwalloe has a beach on either side of the church. The main one offers very coarse sand with outbreaks of pebbles; the other is pure pebble. This was Perran's first beach: he particularly liked the stream and sat in it to fully explore its play potential. The toddler Elisabeth once rejected the sand beach in favour of sorting pebbles on a "proper" beach! Both beaches are a short walk from the National Trust car park; there are also toilets. In season, there can also be a shop and lifeguard. (August 2003)
  
  
• Coverack has a reputation for being quite "bucket and spade" so we have avoided it during the holiday season. It is supposed to have a lovely sandy beach but, close to low tide, there was a little sand at the edge of a standard Cornish pebble beach — although wide expanses of sand were visible through the sea. The beach curves around a sheltered bay: there are tourist shops and cafes at one end and more at the other which has access to a small harbour. It's a pleasant walk along the top, looking down from a high breakwater onto the beach (accessed by steep stairs at several points) but hazardous with small children because the pavement frequently peters out. There is parking along the road above the beach but the most reliable option is to use the pay-and-display on the way in. And there are several toilet blocks. (April 2004)
  
  
• Marazion has a long sandy beach opposite St Michael's Mount. It is popular with wind surfers in the right weather. (June 2004)
  
  
• Porthcurno has lovely golden sand and beautiful turquoise blue water (honestly!) Lloyd was very cautious about letting the children swim because it has a steeply shelving beach. Fortunately, we were there at low tide because they didn't take "No" for an answer — denied swimsuits, they just stripped off and went in regardless. There is a car park but the toilets were locked. While in the area, you can visit the Minack Theatre or try to find the Logan Rock. (September 2001)
  
  
• Sennen, near Land's End, claims to have over a mile of golden sand and is very popular with surfers in the right weather. It certainly has great views towards Cape Cornwall. There's a pay & display car park at the beach end and another, more expensive one, at the harbour end. Both have toilets and shops with the more interesting shopping and food at the harbour side. Elisabeth enjoyed the beach; we enjoyed the Round House and Capstan Gallery at the harbour. (September 2000)
  
  
• Land's End If you want to see Land's End (the coast, not the tourist attraction), there is no need to pay for access: walk over from Sennen via the coastal path; there's a public right of way. Other parts of the coast are equally spectacular; try Cape Cornwall — it only just missed out on being the most westerly point — which is usually quieter. (January 2001)
  
  
• Mevagissey is a small pretty harbour. We have avoided it for years because of its reputation for being very touristy. The reality was not as bad as we feared but neither was it good enough to justify an expedition from Cadgwith. (Yes, we're damning with faint praise!) If you want quaint narrow streets, touristy, and better quality art and craft, try St Ives. If you want a working harbour, try Newlyn. But if you do visit, please believe the signs and park your car before entering the town. On foot, we made much faster progress than the terrified tourists trying to navigate through the maze of streets in a car. (September 2001)
  

Museums and Other Destinations

• Lizard Lighthouse is south of Lizard Village, just off the road to the most southerly point. You can walk down from Lizard Village or park at the National Trust car park (with toilets). The lighthouse tours are run by the Trevithick Trust; you get time to look around the engine room, watch a short film about the work of Trinity House in maintaining shipping safety, and then the lighthouse keeper takes you up to see the actual light. There were no signs indicating that this could be a difficult climb: Elisabeth (5) and Perran (3) coped with spiral stairs and a steep vertical ladder but younger children might have trouble. There was a brief but very informative lecture at the light and then we squeezed through a narrow hatch to the parapet outside to enjoy some wonderful views from the top of the lighthouse. If you're queasy about heights, skip this part of the tour. Then it was back down the ladder with parents acting as safety barriers for their offspring. Anne did the ladder in a skirt — and Lloyd said that improved the view! Elisabeth and Perran seemed to have taken it all in stride but we enjoyed it and were glad to have visited. (August 2003)

• Goonhilly Satellite Earth Station is on the B3293 between Helston and St Keverne. It's the world's largest satellite station and the dishes are visible from many points of the Lizard Peninsula. We had assumed that it had little to offer the younger set until another family visited it twice in two years and Elisabeth's cousin Joe (aged five) gave it a favourable report. Elisabeth, also five, thoroughly enjoyed herself. Highlights included the guided bus tour and the "interactive exhibition area" where she explored Morse code and had her photo taken with a spaceman! Perran, aged three, managed the tour with the aid of strategically offered sweets and was more impressed with the two children's play areas. However, he found plenty of buttons to push in the exhibition area and amused himself for a surprising length of time. This is a very well-run facility with the most professionally friendly staff we've encountered. There is a café and all the other expected mod cons. (August 2003)

• Helston Folk Museum has a varied collection of items from local industries and domestic life. Elisabeth and Perran cover the ground at speed but do find plenty to interest them. This time, they had a children's treasure trail to follow and were rewarded with real treasure (pyrite aka fool's gold) at the end. Both enjoyed the antique toys and the recreated schoolroom: Elisabeth spent some time in the Costume room while Perran was more impressed with the old fire engines and happily identified some old police uniforms. The museum staff were most understanding and tolerated a bit of noise and running around. (August 2004)

• Poldark Mine in Wendron on the B3297 is based on an 18th century tin mine. There is an underground tour which we couldn't do because Perran didn't meet the minimum age requirement of four. Without doing the tour, it is difficult to say if the mine is worth visiting: on the plus side, admission to the site is free with only the tour costing extra. That lets you see the small but interesting museum, the antique mine equipment, as well as the usual amenities of playground and café. There are also a number of craft shops and workshops which did not thrill Elisabeth and Perran but might interest older children and adults. The negative was the "amusements" which meant pleas to play with radio controlled cars or boats or any of the delights of a fully equipped but shabby arcade. Without trying to do everything, or letting Elisabeth and Perran spot the hands-on ceramics and candle-making, we spent a pleasant hour here. When Perran is old enough, we'll be back to check out the tour. (August 2003)

• National Maritime Museum Cornwall in Falmouth opened this year. We visited during the free "Sea Trials" before the official opening. We were impressed by the building and the displays of boats and enjoyed using the interactive displays. And the view from the tower over the Fal estuary was spectacular. However, we found navigation around the museum a little confusing and wondered how well the facilities will handle the summer crowds. Given that our two covered it at their usual breakneck speed — we're lucky if we can look at more than one display in each gallery! — we are not sure that it will be good value as a family outing with small children. But it is worth a visit for everyone else. (December 2002)
  
  
• Minack Theatre is an amazing outdoor theatre built into the side of a cliff above Porthcurno. There is a full schedule of performances during the summer but it also worth stopping in for its museum, the coastal views, and the theatre itself. Even when it's silent, it is an amazing venue. We also enjoyed the ice cream and the views at the café. Friends had lunch there a day later and recommend the pasties. (September 2001)
  
  
• Wayside Folk Museum, in Zennor, has a similar collection to Helston's but in much more intimate circumstances — it is housed in some converted Cornish cottages. The gift shop has a superb collection of books on Cornwall. There is also a pub and a café/hostel nearby for a quick bite or a full meal. (October 1999)

Walking Trips

• Poltesco The 2 mile round trip from Cadgwith to Poltesco is a must: take the coastal path out and the road through Ruan Minor back. The highlight is Carleon Cove which has a grand expanse of rocks, boulders, and pebbles (not a hint of sand!) and the ruins of an old serpentine factory. Allow at least an hour.

• Devil's Frying Pan and Grade The trip to the Devil's Frying Pan on the south side is also mandatory (and a very steep climb up) but remember to explain to children that it is simply the remains of a collapsed sea cave before you go — we've seen a sobbing six-year-old pass by with the parent saying "I didn't mean that kind of frying pan!" If you're energetic, continue on to Grade Church which stands alone up on the downs. Make sure you see Hugh Mason's grave stone outside against the north end of the church: it is a fine piece of slate and you may, in the right light, be able to decipher the unusual inscription. Come back across the fields if you can find the paths from the back of the churchyard (OS map recommended).

• Lizard and Church Cove If you're really into hiking, continue past the turn to Grade on to the Lizard (turn inland past the lighthouse rather than going all the way to the Point, if you like). Or detour inland at Church Cove and see the church at Landewednack, the most southerly parish in England. Come back from the Lizard on the double hedge (a path on top of a double-thick dry stone wall); the path starts just outside Lizard Town.

• Lizard Lifeboat Station and Church Cove Drive into the Lizard and follow signs for Church Cove. Leave your car at the car park just below the church at Landewednack. Start down the hill into Church Cove and then turn right onto the private road to the Lizard Lifeboat Station. From the Lifeboat Station, head back to Church Cove on the Coast Path — it's narrow and steep but falls don't have the potential for serious injuries. At Church Cove, climb back up the road to your car and/or a visit to the church.

Please be aware that the coastal path is very narrow and steep around Cadgwith and you should be cautious with inexperienced free range children. If you wish to test your child's skills and/or stamina, you can drive to the National Trust car park at Poltesco and make your way down into the cove. Alternatively, you can go up to the Devil's Frying Pan but keep a good grip on the little ones because there is a sheer drop on one side of the path. Elisabeth (6) and Perran (4) have enjoyed the Poltesco walk and completed the Grade walk — and we did small parts of the other walks when they were younger.

For more detailed instructions on walks, you can use:

• Five Walks around Ruan Minor & Cadgwith
• Five Walks from The Lizard
• Beneath the Skin of The Lizard: Seven Coastal Walks Exploring The Geology of The Lizard Peninsula

These are all by Robin Bates and Bill Scolding and published by the Cornwall County Council in conjunction with the local parish council. They can be found in many local shops.

Penrose Estate and Loe Pool: This quiet National Trust property contains Loe Pool, the largest fresh water lake in Cornwall. It attracts a wide variety of birds. There is a five mile walk around the Pool — which includes the Loe Bar sandbar. We did part of it, walking along the lake edge of the estate nearest Helston. It was very pleasant and there was a lot of wildlife to see and hear. The estate has no facilities beyond a car park just off the Porthleven-Helston road; we recommend using the public toilets in Porthleven before embarking on a walk with children. (August 2002)

Arts and Crafts

• Crows Nest in Cadgwith has a surprisingly large variety tucked into a small space. The prices reflect the quality but there is something for every budget. There is also a small area set aside for children to browse while their parents look at more delicate works. The stairs up to it are not for the faint-hearted but Anne made it down, unassisted, while carrying the baby Perran and a large print! (August 2004)

• Shipton's Cornish Stone Shop at the Lizard. There are a number of serpentine shops in the Lizard but this is our favourite. It has a wide range of semiprecious stones as well as a good selection of serpentine. The variety of colours and objects fascinated Elisabeth (5) and Perran (3). They were rewarded for good conduct by each choosing a semiprecious stone for what, they claimed, was the start of a collection. Be careful before agreeing to this — we have had to make return visits to add more to their hoard! (August 2004)

• Trecarne Pottery is just about the first you see driving into Mullion from the Lizard road. Michel Roux moved from the Pyrenees to Cornwall in 2002 and is enthusiastic about how the change in scenery has affected his pottery. He describes it as "stoneware in the colours of Cornwall that is functional and decorative". It is also amazingly child-friendly: Michel told Elisabeth and Perran they could touch the pottery (cue smothered gulps from their parents!) and, on a return visit, a pretty little toddler (Michel's granddaughter?) was rearranging the displays as, we were told, a test of the pottery's resilience. Elisabeth and Perran were surprisingly enthusiastic about both the coloured stoneware and the items decorated with simple bold figures. Elisabeth managed to convince Lloyd that she needed a new money box while Perran happily chose some decorative tiles for himself. Anne also found all the gift ideas she needed but had a hard time making the final selection. (August 2004)

• Mullion Gallery is almost opposite the Mullion Post Office. This is a long established gallery with a large stock from a wide range of local artists. It is dominated by prints and paintings, most showing the local scenery. Some of these are twee watercolours and pastels, presumably for the tourist trade. (August 2002)

• Mullion Meadows Craft Centre, just outside Mullion on the road to Mullion Cove, was established by a retired farmer in converted farm buildings. It has a selection of individual craft shops as well as a decent coffee shop. Anthony Smith of Gallery Anthony has to run the most child-friendly gallery we've ever seen! Small children are encouraged to explore the generous floor space and play with the toys while their parents look at his beautiful and evocative paintings of seascapes. Julia Trahair at JT Crafts is also very child-friendly. Her colourful and witty block printed textiles make wonderful gifts and Elisabeth and Perran love being involved in the selection process. They particularly recommend the children's hats and wear theirs throughout the summer. We also like Home Farm Candles for its wide range of scented soaps and votive candles. And don't miss Trenance Chocolates where you can watch the chocolates being made. This is one of our prime bad weather destinations — the grown-ups get to browse some quality craft and the children are rewarded with a snack in the coffee shop! (August 2004)

• Samvado creates sculptural woodturning at his studio on Rosuick Farm in Traboe (follow the signs from the B3293 at Goonhilly). His work ranges from clock platters, bowls and spheres all the way up to large sculptures such as obelisks. Elisabeth (6) and Perran (4), not to mention their parents, were greatly impressed with the sheer beauty of the wood and spent quite some time browsing. (August 2004)

• Cornwall Crafts Association at Trelowarren, near Helston. A solid and extensive range of crafts combined with a program of exhibitions make this worth a trip. There is also an independent pottery and a plant nursery as well as the New Yard Restaurant. (April 2004)

• Creftow on Church Street in Helston is an artists' cooperative for people living and working in West Cornwall. The emphasis is on paintings — of quite some size — but there is a good selection from other crafts such as ceramics and sculpture. They run a changing program of exhibitions within the three galleries. This is "real" contemporary art rather than work produced solely or mainly for the tourist trade. (December 2002)

• The Net Loft Gallery and The Old Customs House Studio is on The Harbour in Porthleven. The studio has a varied selection by local artists in a wide range of media. The gallery has a changing program of exhibitions of original artwork and studio glass in a very nice space. The proprietors and staff are friendly and, with Elisabeth and Perran on good form, welcoming to the children. (August 2004)
  
  
• Out of the Blue in Marazion has an excellent range of artists' work and a varied program of exhibitions. There are other galleries in Marazion such as Avalon and the Michael Praed Gallery but we didn't want to overstress the children by visiting them all! (June 2004)
  
  
• The Round House and Capstan Gallery is on the harbour at Sennen Cove, near Lands End. It's one of the largest galleries around and has a great selection, all by Cornish artists. (September 2000)

Family Entertainment

• Flambards Village theme park in Helston for an eclectic collection of exhibitions and rides. The youngest set are well catered for with their own amusement park: adults can squeeze onto most of the rides to accompany the toddlers. Elisabeth and Perran also enjoy the indoor play area while Elisabeth, starting at three, has tackled some of the adult rides (the height guidelines are well marked). She even tried the roller coaster but was a bit overwhelmed — although we know several intrepid two year olds who loved it. She finally tried it again at the age of five and came off skipping with delight while Perran, aged three, seemed to take it completely in stride.
  
  For adults who are looking for something more sedate, there is a Victorian Village and a Britain in the Blitz exhibition. We have done both with the baby Perran in a stroller (he slept through the Blitz!) but there are some stairs to navigate in the Victorian Village. From the age of two, both Elisabeth and Perran have enjoyed looking at the different "houses" and shops and we consider it excellent training for visits to museums. Where else would you have the incentive of a carousel ride to keep them going?! More recently, we have taken them through "Memory Lane" which has an diverse collection ranging from Cornish-themed WWII memorabilia to wedding dresses to a prototype full-scale Concorde cockpit. We all found something to intrigue us. There is also a small Hands-on Experience which lets them test out a variety of scientific phenomena. They both enjoy this and Perran could spend all day dancing in front of the fun house mirrors!

  We finally ventured into "The Wildlife Experience" (formerly "The Really Creepy Crawly Show") when Elisabeth was nearly five and Perran three — we could probably have gone much earlier. The show is a succinct 20 minutes with three animals on show: most recently, we saw a Burmese python, an owl and an eagle. The commentary is informative and entertaining and the animals are walked around at a safe distance from all but the first row. Afterwards, the children (and adults!) can have some hands-on time with the animals. The success of this very much depends on your child: we know a four year old who made a very hasty exit when she saw a tarantula. On the other hand, Elisabeth, who is not an animal enthusiast, was first in line to hold a spider on her hand and delighted to have the python wrapped around her neck, even if she nearly buckled under the weight!

  We try to arrive as the gates are opening: when we're the first visitors to reach Ferdy's Funland (the junior rides) we are given the choice of which ride is turned on first. The staff confirmed that the Funland rarely gets busy before noon. We use the lockers just inside the entrance to stow our gear but be warned that they do not return your pound coin. We have learned to minimize the number of return trips to the locker but it is still worth not being encumbered with coats, nappy change bag, etc.

  Finally, we suggest avoiding as many of the fee-based attractions as your children will permit. Some, like the Aquabugs (cute ladybird boats for toddlers), have a high failure rate and there's nothing worse than using your last 50p coin on a boat that fails to move. Others, like the radio controlled trucks or pirate ships, have such tight time limits that the junior members of the party have barely got to grips with the steering wheel, let alone gained control of their vehicle, before it ceases to move. (August 2004)

• Eddy & Son, on Meneage Street in Helston. From the street, it looks like an art supply shop but upstairs there is a really nice independent toy store. We are impressed by the breadth and quality of the selection and do some serious browsing (not just we're-on-holiday-and-desperate shopping!). And Lloyd enjoys the back room dedicated to serious modellers, with planes, trains, and other models. (August 2004)

• Roskilly's in St Keverne for walks, milking time, and animal-petting. Perran (4) and Elisabeth (5) enjoyed milking time: Perran was very interested in seeing the process while Elisabeth was happier stroking the calves. There is also the Bull Pen Gallery: the small craft collection leans towards ceramics but there is always some spectacular handmade furniture. They also stock a good collection of children's toys, with an emphasis on wooden toys, and an intriguing selection of craft books. And don't forget lunch and/or ice cream at The Croust House restaurant. (August 2004)

• National Seal Sanctuary at Gweek has been rescuing seals for over 40 years. It's a worthy charity but it is not the best excursion for the younger set. We skipped all the displays in the information centre and the hospital, and rode the safari bus (rated the best part of the visit by Elisabeth and her cousin Joe when they were two) down to the seal pools. We arrived just in time for the seals to be fed but this was proceeded by a 20 minute lecture which tried the patience of most toddlers in the crowd — they were going off like car alarms all around us! All in all, we had seen everything the children could handle within an hour, and the best part of that was spent in the adventure playground. We'll wait a few years before we try it again. (September 2001)
  
  
• Paradise Park in Hayle is a wildlife sanctuary specialising in parrots and other exotic birds. We have visited several times over the years and have always found it to be a good day out. The grownups particularly enjoy seeing the owls close-up while the toddler Perran enthusiastically made friends with the goats at the "fun farm". Elisabeth has always been more impressed with the adventure playground than the birds but we all like the ride on the miniature railway. There is a good program of special activities throughout the day: we have had fun seeing the penguins fed, and also enjoyed the "free flying show" where various birds take to the sky above the audience. Perran (aged two and then four) and Elisabeth also like feeding the lorikeets and were delighted when one drank its fill from our cup of nectar. There is a decent cafe within the park and a nice pub, "The Bird in Hand", just outside if you want a wider selection. Lloyd recommends their own brew, the Speckled Parrot! (August 2004)

• Land's End used to have a dodgy reputation as a tourist trap but it's much improved. It offers five main attractions and we successfully navigated three of them with Elisabeth (2) on foot and Perran (9 months) in the backpack. They even made it through the half hour multimedia extravaganza of The Last Labyrinth without being bothered by the dark, smoke, or sound effects! We felt we got reasonable value for money on a dreary January day; in season, with more inviting weather for exploring the coast and the playgrounds, and all the gift shops stocked and open, it should be even more fun. (January 2001)

• World of Model Railways, in Mevagissey, made for a diverting half hour. We were a little surprised to find it was only one long thin room, dominated by a single layout, but it is an excellent layout with many clever details that take time to find. There was also a small Thomas the Tank Engine layout which entertained Elisabeth (3) — and a very good selection of Thomas the Tank Engine merchandise in the gift shop. Sadly, Perran (1) slept through our visit but it would have been difficult to keep him in the stroller because there was nothing at his eye level. (September 2001)

Playgrounds

• Ruan Minor's playground is next to the playing fields. It is accessible from the Cadgwith road, just before the bend in front of the Spar shop. It is quite small but well provisioned: our two have been visiting it for over three years and never turn down a chance to make another trip. Perran, the King of Swing, approves of both regular and toddler swings while Elisabeth has gleefully mastered the flying fox. There are also two climbing frames. Public toilets are down a lane next to the Spar. (August 2004)

• Lizard Village's playground is visible, and accessible, from Ann's Famous Pasty Shop on Beacon Terrace. The equipment is in the same style as Ruan Minor's playground but even more extensive. Elisabeth particularly enjoyed the tire swings and didn't mention the absence of a flying fox. Public toilets are back at Lizard Green. (August 2003)

• Mullion's playground is just on the left as you start to walk down the Poldhu road from the car parks. There is a lot of grass and rather less equipment. However, pieces like a balance beam have been added since our last visit so it may be a work in progress. Elisabeth and Perran were more adept on the climbing frame this time and enjoyed themselves. Toilets are back at the public car parks. (August 2004)

• Coronation Park in Helston (on the B3304 to Porthleven) has an unusually wide range of facilities. In addition to the playground, with regular and toddler swings, merry-go-round, and climbing frames (including a tall structure that leads to a tubular slide), there is a skateboard park, lake with rowboats, canoes and paddle boats available to hire, and a café. We suspect there are toilets but did not spot them. Parking is available at the adjacent Cattle Market Pay & Display lot or a little further down the road at a free lot. (August 2003)

• Marazion playground is visible from the main road through the village, and conveniently close to the major car park for St Michael's Mount. It offers a lot of play possibilities for a wide range of age groups with sand and sand-moving equipment, an interesting train to explore, and a great climbing frame. There are toilets nearby. (June 2004)